Learn How to Decode the Year, Leather Type, and Other Key Details.
Whether you're an experienced Hermès collector or about to purchase your first Hermès bag, you've probably heard of Hermès date stamps or date codes. But how do you interpret these date stamps? And where can you find them? We receive many inquiries on this subject, so we've put together this comprehensive Hermès date stamp guide.
Hermès date codes are embedded in what they call "blind stamps." These blind stamps are codes that indicate the date of manufacture and can help authenticate a bag, although they are not definitive proof of authenticity on their own.
Hermès uses letters in alphabetical order to date their bags, often enclosed in a shape. Here’s a breakdown of the system:
From 1945 to 1970, no shapes were used.
From 1971 to 1996, a circle shape was used.
From 1997 to 2014, a square shape was used.
Most recently, in 2019, no shape was used.
If there are additional numbers or letters next to the blind stamp, these indicate the section of the atelier where the bag was made.
To help you determine when your Hermès handbag was manufactured, refer to the chart below. You can find the stamp on the outer arm of Kelly or Birkin bags, or sometimes on an interior panel, as seen in the Constance. Start by identifying the shape around the date code and then match the letter inside the shape to the corresponding year in the chart.
2014 Stamps: The 2014 stamp can either include a square around the first letter or be a bare letter, as Hermès transitioned back to using bare letters that year.
Special Stamps: Some Hermès bags, such as the Evelyne and Double Sens, may feature a "JO" stamp in a rectangle instead of the usual "O" stamp in a square.
Extra Hermès Stamps for Identifying Exotic Leathers
Hermès employs additional stamps to denote exotic leather handbags, such as those made from crocodile, alligator, and lizard. These stamps also identify Special Order bags, employee sales, and other unique items. Although these marks are not part of the date code, our Hermès date stamp guide includes them to help you recognize some of the most coveted bags. These extra Hermès stamps consist of a single discreet symbol next to the branded “Hermès, Paris, Made in France.”
The square (☐):
The square symbol indicates Alligator mississippiensis, or American alligator. These reptiles are sourced from freshwater farms along the Mississippi River. Known for their exceptional durability, alligator skin can last for generations with proper care.
In addition to the stamp symbol, you can identify alligator skin by looking for a prominent umbilical scar. Hermès artisans strategically cut the leather to ensure the scar is visible along the center of the bag, showcasing its authenticity. Due to the smaller size of alligators compared to crocodiles, this leather is more commonly used for smaller bags and accessories.
The carat (^):
The caret symbol (^) indicates Crocodile porosus. This species is sourced from regions in Asia and Australia. Crocodile porosus skins are characterized by smaller, more defined scales and small visible pores where hair follicles used to be.
You can find Crocodile porosus in both matte and shiny finishes, with the shiny finish being referred to as “lisse.” Both Crocodile porosus and Crocodile niloticus skins are among the most precious and expensive leathers available from Hermès.
The Double Dots (..):
This symbol indicates Crocodile Niloticus. Crocodiles are larger than alligators and come from saltwater environments. This particular species is sourced from the Nile river and their scales are a bit larger compared to Crocodile Porosus, but with small visible pores.
The Dash (-):
This symbol represents Varanus niloticus lizard, also known as the Nile monitor. Found in the West African region and along the Nile, this species is one of the largest lizards in the world and the second-largest reptile in the Nile River.
The Nile monitor is characterized by its tiny, uniform round scales that absorb dye exceptionally well, often resulting in bright, bold hues. This makes Varanus niloticus a popular choice for Hermès exotic leather items.
The Equal Sign (=):
This symbol denotes Varanus Salvator lizard, commonly known as the Ring lizard. This Asian water monitor is found in northeast India, Sri Lanka, and the Indonesian Islands. Its skin is distinguished by round color patterns within the scales, giving it the name "ring lizard."
The scales of the Ring lizard are small and square-like, becoming larger and more rectangular towards the belly area. This unique pattern is exemplified in the bag featured in the image on the right of this post.
The Horseshoe:
The horseshoe symbol indicates that the bag is a Special Order (SO) item and is often referred to as an HSS (Horseshoe Stamp) item. For Hermès connoisseurs, the rarity and allure of these bespoke bags never diminishes.
It's important to note that Special Order bags should not be confused with special editions. While special edition Hermès items are distinguished by their unique boxes, Special Order bags are identified by the horseshoe symbol, which lies next to the Hermès Made In France logo.
These custom-designed bags are exclusive to Hermès VIPs and come in a variety of styles and textiles, including unique exotic skins like ostrich (which does not have its own unique stamp symbol). Most HSS bags boast distinctive color combinations, adding to their allure and exclusivity.
The Shooting Star:
The shooting star symbol signifies that the bag is a craftsman’s personal creation. These items are exceedingly rare and highly sought-after. Encountering one of these gems is a cause for celebration, as they are not commonly found in the market.
While it's widely understood, it's easy to overlook the fact that all Hermès bags are meticulously handmade by skilled artisans who excel at their craft. These artisans enjoy incredible perks beyond their craftsmanship, including the occasional opportunity to create and keep a bag for themselves. The shooting star bags represent these personal creations by the artisans themselves – a truly remarkable find for any Hermès enthusiast.
The Employee Stamp:
Typically, a debossed S serves as an indicator that an item has been purchased at a discounted employee rate. However, additional numbers and/or letters may also be present in some cases.
How to Find Hermès Date Stamps
Locating Hermès date stamps can be a bit challenging as they are not consistently placed in one location. Depending on the age and style of the item, date stamps can be found in various spots, requiring some effort to locate. However, familiarizing yourself with the most common areas to search can expedite the process. The term "blind stamps" is aptly used to describe them, as they can sometimes be elusive to find.
For Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags, the date stamp is typically located on the strap.
Starting from 2016, the Hermès stamp on Birkin and Kelly bags has been placed on the left side of the interior.
For Hermès Evelyne bags, you can find the stamp inside the closure strap.
In the case of the Hermès Mini Kelly, the stamp is located inside, next to the pocket.
For the Hermès Mini Lindy, you'll find the stamp inside the interior pocket.
When it comes to the Hermès Constance, look for the stamp on the interior divider, positioned on the upper corner just below the stitch line.
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